A COLLECTION OF GOOD WORDS
冲浪
Surfing
I get to surf every day.
我每天都冲浪。
I'm surfing the giant life wave.
我在巨浪中冲浪。
I never tired of picturing sharks.
我总是不厌其烦地想象鲨鱼。
I've tried body surfing. It's nice.
我试过身体冲浪。它很好。
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
冲浪是我的信仰，如果我有的话。
It looks easy, like surfing, but surfing is hard too.
看起来很简单，就像冲浪一样，但是冲浪也很难。
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
冲浪是如此多的工作。这是我喜欢做的事情之一，但是太难了。
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
出于某种原因，冲浪……我不害怕大海，所以对我来说风险并不大。
I don't surf the net in general. I have someone do it for me instead, because I find it sluggish.
我一般不上网。我让别人替我做这件事，因为我觉得它很缓慢。
I'm not surfing much anymore, but I love hiking and gardening, and I'm always wearing a hat and sunblock.
我不再经常冲浪，但我喜欢远足和园艺，我总是戴着帽子和防晒霜。
I want to try doing sportier things, kite surfing and paddle surfing - I think it would give me that extra confidence.
我想尝试做一些更运动的事情，风筝冲浪和桨冲浪——我想这会给我额外的自信。
I discovered surfing, which I absolutely fell in love with. That feels good and kind of keeps your body aligned, so does the salt water.
我发现了冲浪，我完全爱上了它。这感觉很好，让你的身体保持平衡，盐水也是。
KEEP EXPLORING
沿着这个主题，再读几句。
I feel like an ambassador for surfing at this point. I'm happy to go and play that role and share that where I can in certain areas of the mainstream media that doesn't get the surfing attention.
在这一点上，我感觉自己像一个冲浪大使。我很乐意去扮演这个角色，并在主流媒体的某些领域分享我所能做的事情，而这些领域并没有引起网民的注意。
I love anything that involves the ocean. Swimming, snorkelling or surfing are all fun, which distracts from your mind that you are actually doing a workout. Being outdoors in the sun and the salt water is great for freeing your mind and feeling alive.
我喜欢任何与海洋有关的东西。游泳、潜水或冲浪都很有趣，它们会分散你的注意力，让你忘记你实际上是在锻炼身体。置身户外，沐浴在阳光下，沐浴在咸水里，可以让你的思想得到解放，让你感觉充满活力。
I absolutely love any kind of outdoor activities like snowboarding, hiking, surfing, and laying out on the beach if I ever get the time... which is not often!
如果我有时间的话，我绝对喜欢任何一种户外活动，比如滑雪板、徒步旅行、冲浪和在海滩上躺着……这并不常见!
I feel really fortunate that, in playing guitar and surfing, I've found two things that mean so much to me, and which really complement each other. There's definitely a spiritual thing to both of them; they totally connect you to a higher realm.
我觉得很幸运，在弹吉他和冲浪的过程中，我发现了两件对我来说意义重大的事情，它们彼此互补。他们俩都有一种精神上的东西;它们完全把你连接到一个更高的境界。