I'm surfing the giant life wave.

  • -- William Shatner 威廉·沙特纳

我在巨浪中冲浪。

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I love anything that involves the ocean. Swimming, snorkelling or surfing are all fun, which distracts from your mind that you are actually doing a workout. Being outdoors in the sun and the salt water is great for freeing your mind and feeling alive.

我喜欢任何与海洋有关的东西。游泳、潜水或冲浪都很有趣,它们会分散你的注意力,让你忘记你实际上是在锻炼身体。置身户外,沐浴在阳光下,沐浴在咸水里,可以让你的思想得到解放,让你感觉充满活力。

I called to the other men that the sky was clearing, and then a moment later I realized that what I had seen was not a rift in the clouds but the white crest of an enormous wave.

我向其他人喊道,天空正在放晴。过了一会儿,我意识到我看到的不是云层中的裂缝,而是一个巨浪的白色浪峰。

Unless you paddle for the wave, you'll never know if you could catch it. But once you do... Ride it as long as you can. Love as long as you can.

除非你向波浪划去,否则你永远不知道你是否能抓住它。但一旦你这么做了…你能骑多久就骑多久。爱得越久越好。

For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.

出于某种原因,冲浪……我不害怕大海,所以对我来说风险并不大。