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The idea of old was to conform yourself to a style of cooking, it was not to create a style of cooking. Now the chef is so much into 'I want to sign that dish and say I am the one who made that dish.'

老的想法是让自己符合一种烹饪风格,而不是创造一种烹饪风格。现在,这位厨师非常热衷于“我想在这道菜上签名,并说这道菜是我做的”。

— Jacques Pepin 雅克·佩平

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